I Don’t Want to Retire(ment Planning)

When I write about retirement planning or saving for retirement in general, one reply I often hear is, “But I don’t want to retire! I enjoy my work.” That’s a sentiment I can relate to personally. I enjoy my work a great deal, and I hope to continue doing it for as long as I can.

So, for those of you in a similar situation, what should you be doing differently from other investors?

Should You Save for Retirement Anyway?

You may enjoy your work now, but will you still feel that way when you actually reach the age where most people retire? Betting your future livelihood on the assumption that you won’t change your mind is a risk that doesn’t seem wise to me.

Naturally, the level of this risk is affected by your current age. If you’re 62 and have no desire to retire, that’s one thing. Being 32 and having no desire to retire is another. The likelihood of changing your mind at some point in the next three decades is much greater than the likelihood of changing your mind in the next three years.

In fact, if you’re in your twenties or thirties, I’d suggest saving as if you planned to retire at a typical age, regardless of whether you currently intend to do so.

Once you begin to close in on 65 or so, if you still feel no desire to retire, then at that point, it likely makes sense to start scaling back your annual retirement savings. (Or, depending on how much you’ve accumulated by that point, it could make sense to stop saving completely.)

How Long Will You Be Able to Work?

Even if you never end up wanting to retire, it’s important to recognize that you might not get a say in the matter. Layoffs occur, even to valuable employees. And in an era where age discrimination is an (unfortunate) reality, finding another job isn’t a sure bet.

Alternatively, even if your employment prospects never pose a problem, your health might. Depending on the work you do, there’s a good chance that at some point your body simply won’t allow you to continue the same level of productive output.

To neglect saving because you assume you’ll be able to work as long as you want puts you at risk of a meaningful decline in living standard later in life.

Roth IRA or Traditional IRA?

As we’ve discussed before, the question of whether to contribute to a Roth or traditional IRA is primarily a function of how you expect your tax bracket during the withdrawal stage to compare to your current tax bracket. (If you expect it to be higher later, go with a Roth. If you expect it to be lower, go with a traditional IRA.)

Naturally, if you expect to continue earning income well into what many would consider their retirement years, your late-in-life tax bracket is likely to be higher than that of many other investors. As such, a Roth IRA becomes relatively more attractive.

Don’t Forget About Insurance.

Lastly, if you work well into your 70s, you’re going to have different insurance needs than investors who retire at age 60 or 65. If you’re planning to continue working (and you expect to be reliant on that income), you’ll probably want to keep a disability insurance policy active. And, if anybody other than you will be relying on your extended-career income, you may also need life insurance longer than most other investors.

Retiring Soon? Pick Up a Copy of My Book:

Can I Retire Cover

Can I Retire? Managing a Retirement Portfolio Explained in 100 Pages or Less

Topics Covered in the Book:
  • How to calculate how much you’ll need saved before you can retire,
  • How to minimize the risk of outliving your money,
  • How to choose which accounts (Roth vs. traditional IRA vs. taxable) to withdraw from each year,
  • Click here to see the full list.

A Testimonial from a Reader on Amazon:

"Hands down the best overview of what it takes to truly retire that I've ever read. In jargon free English, this gem of a book nails the key issues."

The Best Places to Retire

For the Baby Boomer generation, the current economic recession has meant both reduced investment accounts and impeded prospects for continued employment. In fact, many Americans are facing the prospect of retiring with social security as their primary means of income.

Naturally, most people do not want to see their living standards decline dramatically in retirement. As a result, many people have begun to ponder retiring overseas — particularly in the developing world — as a way to maintain their standard of living, or perhaps even elevate it.

While retiring overseas is an option, it’s not a perfect solution. Poor countries have many problems. The poorer the country, the more problems: poor infrastructure, political instability, and perhaps most importantly, economic instability. Further, poor countries might even suffer from periodic currency devaluation (as a result of defaulting on their debts).

Where You Can Retire

As a foreign retiree, you are essentially an immigrant. That means you will require a special visa to settle indefinitely in a new country. Most countries in the world do not have retirement visas and therefore make it next to impossible for foreign retirees to settle in their country. The United States, for instance, does not have a retirement visa program.

However, some countries around the world, particularly in Latin America and Southeast Asia, have created special retirement visas for foreigners. These countries believe that retirees with state pensions — such as social security — are a revenue generator, and they have made it possible for this group to settle permanently in their countries.

So which countries are best for a person to retire to? If you are approaching retirement with considerable assets and income, the list of countries you can retire to is considerable. If you are facing a retirement with low income, you really can only retire to the developing world. Developed countries are simply too expensive.

Best Places to Retire Abroad: Limited Income

Most of the following countries suffer from periodic currency devaluations, political instability, and poverty. But, on a limited income, they’re the best of the bunch.

Costa Rica: In many ways the most politically stable and economically vibrant country in Latin America (with the exception of Chile), this country is extremely popular with American tourists. It’s outlook is certainly bright, and it boasts a large number of nature preserves for those interested in a more ecologically friendly country for their retirement.

Malaysia: The most developed country in Southeast Asia outside of Singapore, this country is affordable and far more stable than its neighbor Thailand. It has a developed retirement visa program, and it boasts pristine beaches and wilderness. Beware though, that its conservative Muslim government is known for restricting the rights of some ethnic minorities.

Uruguay: One of the most affordable places to live in the Americas. It has a relatively low crime rate, and a politically stable government. However, its small economy can be dramatically affected by the volatility of its neighbor to the South, Argentina.

Panama: This progressive Central American country probably has the most economic incentive programs for foreign retirees. There are discounts for shopping if you are over a certain age, you can import some goods duty free, and you pay no tax on all foreign income. The Panamanian economy also uses the dollar as its currency. Beware the high humidity and somewhat-high crime.

Nicaragua: This is another Central American country trying to attract western retirees looking for a lower cost of living. Nicaragua is quite poor, but it is stable and has a rapidly growing economy. For those trying to get the most bang out of their buck, it may be ideal. But beware the lack of sophistication and high levels of poverty.

Best Places to Retire Abroad: Higher Income

France: A stable, strong economy with great healthcare and of course great scenery. However, it doesn’t come free, and this country has the highest cost of living of any retirement destination on this list. But if you can afford it, go for it.

Spain: Spain has great infrastructure that is improving by the day due to government investments. It has low crime and decent healthcare. While it’s cheaper than France, it’s still far more expensive than anywhere in Latin America.

Italy: Italy, particularly in its Southern and rural regions, is more affordable than France and Spain, but in urban centers it can get expensive. It’s famous for its ineffective bureaucracy, which can make applying for a retirement visa a headache. Infrastructure can be spotty in areas as well.

Portugal: The most affordable part of Western Europe, it is a country that is growing in popularity as a retirement destination. While it is cheaper to live there than other places in Europe, that affordability comes with a price: economic instability.

New Zealand: The ideal place for an American to retire. It’s cheap, has a diverse ecology, and English is the national language. The problem is that New Zealand’s retirement visa program literally costs millions of dollars in order to qualify. If you can afford it, and are not comfortable living in a country where English is not widely spoken, go for it. For others interested in New Zealand, a snow bird alternative — liveing in the country on a tourist visa for up to six months a year — will be the only realistic option.

Do Your Research

Retiring overseas is not easy. It is not a matter of simply picking up and moving. It requires research and a well thought out plan. It helps if you speak the local language of the country you plan to live in. And it is best if you visit the country before moving.

Visit the country, and see how far your budget will really go. Explore the country thoroughly in all seasons of weather to determine whether you can handle the climate. And ask other expats, particularly those from your own country, about their experiences and for their advice. Most importantly, however, make use of common sense when approaching an overseas move. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

About the author: Rick Todd writes at Expat Investing, where he covers such topics as whether retiring abroad is right for you and how much it costs to retire overseas.

Retiring Soon? Pick Up a Copy of My Book:

Can I Retire Cover

Can I Retire? Managing a Retirement Portfolio Explained in 100 Pages or Less

Topics Covered in the Book:
  • How to calculate how much you’ll need saved before you can retire,
  • How to minimize the risk of outliving your money,
  • How to choose which accounts (Roth vs. traditional IRA vs. taxable) to withdraw from each year,
  • Click here to see the full list.

A Testimonial from a Reader on Amazon:

"Hands down the best overview of what it takes to truly retire that I've ever read. In jargon free English, this gem of a book nails the key issues."

Investing Blog Roundup: Time and Equity Risk

This week I came across a study (done in 2009) by Vanguard, that I found quite interesting. It focuses on how investors perceive stock market risk to change over time. For example:

  • 26% of respondents believe that stocks will always outperform bonds over a period of 20 years or more.
  • Investors with a 4-year college degree or more were significantly more confident in stocks’ likelihood of outperforming bonds than were investors with less education.
  • Male investors are far more confident than female investors about the likelihood of stocks outperforming bonds.

I’m not sure what to do with such information. But it’s interesting nonetheless. :)

Investing Articles

Other Money-Related Articles

Blog Carnivals

Thanks for reading!

Do You Have an Investment Backup Plan?

Last weekend, I read Larry Swedroe’s latest book The Only Guide You’ll Ever Need for the Right Financial Plan. (Excellent book, by the way, for the intermediate/advanced investor.)

One point Swedroe makes repeatedly throughout the book is that you need a “Plan B” if you’re going to be investing in risky securities like stocks. Specifically, you need to be prepared for a scenario in which:

  1. Stock returns over your retirement are far less than their historical averages (and lower than the returns you were planning on), or
  2. You face an unlucky sequence of returns — namely, a bear market at the beginning of retirement — that leaves your portfolio at just a fraction of its original size while you still (might) have 20+ years of retirement to go.

In other words, you need to have a specific plan for what you will do if it looks like your portfolio is no longer going to be able to sustain the rate of spending that you originally planned on. For example, “If our withdrawal rate gets above X% before age 70, we’ll _____.”

“Plan B” Options

The most likely forms of backup plans are simply ways you can cut your spending or increase your income. For example:

  • Take vacations half as often,
  • Sell your home and move into something less expensive, or
  • Get a part-time job or start a business.

Investment “Plan B”

But what if you don’t want to go back to work or significantly reduce your spending? Is there any way to adjust your portfolio so that it can fund a higher withdrawal rate?

Moving more money into stocks may work — if you get lucky and the market comes roaring back just when you need it to. Or, it could backfire completely if the market continues to perform poorly.

Moving a large portion of your portfolio into TIPS would reduce your risk. But their payout is rather low. An all-TIPS portfolio is unlikely to sustain a withdrawal rate that’s already unsafely high.

In short, if you’re looking at a dangerously high withdrawal rate and you’re absolutely unwilling to cut spending or go back to work, annuitizing your portfolio may be the only way to ensure you don’t outlast your money.

Of course, as we’ve discussed several times here, annuities have their own drawbacks:

Plan B Stinks. What’s My Other Choice?

What if you’re unwilling to cut your spending, unwilling to get a job in retirement, and unwilling to annuitize your portfolio?

If that’s the case, then you probably shouldn’t be taking investment risk at all. I’d say that your best bet is to use a portfolio comprised largely of TIPS and to plan from Day 1 to use a very low withdrawal rate.

Retiring Soon? Pick Up a Copy of My Book:

Can I Retire Cover

Can I Retire? Managing a Retirement Portfolio Explained in 100 Pages or Less

Topics Covered in the Book:
  • How to calculate how much you’ll need saved before you can retire,
  • How to minimize the risk of outliving your money,
  • How to choose which accounts (Roth vs. traditional IRA vs. taxable) to withdraw from each year,
  • Click here to see the full list.

A Testimonial from a Reader on Amazon:

"Hands down the best overview of what it takes to truly retire that I've ever read. In jargon free English, this gem of a book nails the key issues."

Fee-Only Financial Advisors Can Be Biased Too.

If you’re paid to think something is a good idea, you probably think it’s a good idea. Even if it isn’t.

To use a personal example: I used to be paid to convince people to invest in relatively high-cost, actively managed mutual funds. Now that I’m no longer paid to do that, it’s clear to me that my recommendations were less than ideal. But at the time, I was absolutely convinced that such funds were the best choice.

If you want unbiased advice from your financial advisor, it’s essential to eliminate as many conflicts of interest as possible.

Compensation Based on Account Size

Many people claim that the best advisor is one who is paid as a function of your account size. It ties the advisor’s interests to yours…or so goes the claim.

What it really does is tie the advisor’s interests to your account size, not to your overall financial interests.

For example, imagine that you meet with an advisor who charges 1% of assets each year. You go to see him with a $200,000 portfolio and $50,000 remaining on your mortgage. If he convinces you to invest rather than pay off your mortgage, that’s an extra $500 in his pocket every year–regardless of whether or not that was really the best choice for you.

Or imagine a 70-year-old investor with a $500,000 portfolio, who needs to withdraw $30,000 each year. This investor is looking at a 6.00% withdrawal rate–higher than many people would consider safe, even for a 70-year-old.

In such a scenario, a single premium immediate annuity might make a lot of sense. If the investor buys single premium immediate annuities with $400,000 of his portfolio, he could (currently) get a payout of 6.2%, thereby leaving him with a (somewhat) safer withdrawal rate of 5.2% on the rest of his portfolio.

But if he’s using an advisor who charges even 0.5% of assets, the advisor stands to gain $2,000 each year by convincing the client not to buy the annuity. That’s no small incentive.

In short, how your financial advisor is paid has a lot to do with what advice he or she will give you.

Financial Planner vs. Investment Advisor

It’s useful to draw a distinction between financial planners and investment advisors:

If you want to pay somebody solely to manage your investment portfolio (i.e., you want a low-cost investment advisor), then paying based on the size of your account would make sense. Doing so would align the advisor’s interests to your own.

But if you want somebody to provide you with broader financial planning services, I’d suggest looking for somebody who charges an hourly fee, a flat annual fee, or fixed fees for a given service. This way, you don’t have to worry that your advisor is (even unconsciously) giving you less than ideal advice because it serves his own interests.

Investing Blog Roundup: New Book in the Works

Hello, Dear Readers.

You may have noticed that my roundups haven’t included any guest posts for a while. That’s because I haven’t been writing any. :)

Instead, I’ve been hard at work on a new book. This one will be the retirement planning guide in my “100 Pages or Less” series. It’s still got a long way to go, so don’t hold your breath. I just thought I’d explain why I’ve been doing less guest blogging.

As always, if you’re a blogger, you’re welcome to submit a post here for consideration in next week’s roundup.

Investing Articles

Other Money-Related Articles

Blog Carnivals

Thanks for reading!

Disclaimer: By using this site, you explicitly agree to its Terms of Use and agree not to hold Simple Subjects, LLC or any of its members liable in any way for damages arising from decisions you make based on the information made available on this site. I am not a financial or investment advisor, and the information on this site is for informational and entertainment purposes only and does not constitute financial advice.

Copyright 2012 Simple Subjects, LLC - All rights reserved. To be clear: This means that, aside from small quotations, the material on this site may not be republished elsewhere without my express permission. Terms of Use and Privacy Policy