Review: The Bogleheads’ Guide to Retirement Planning

455579_cover.indd I’ve read books that are intended to be “all you need to know about personal finance.” And I’ve read books that are intended to be “all you need to know about investing.” But The Bogleheads’ Guide to Retirement Planning is the first book I’ve read that’s “all you need to know about planning for retirement.”

Note the distinction: This book is not about saving/investing for retirement. It’s about planning for retirement (and everything that’s a part of such planning). The best part about the book, in my opinion, is the breadth of topics covered. The chapter-by-chapter table of contents should give you an idea of the scope:

  1. The Retirement Planning Process
  2. Understanding Taxes
  3. Individual Taxable Accounts
  4. IRAs
  5. Defined Benefit Plans (written by fellow blogger, The Finance Buff)
  6. Defined Contribution Plans
  7. Single-Premium Immediate Annuities
  8. Basic Investing Principles
  9. Investing for Retirement
  10. Funding Your Retirement Accounts
  11. Understanding Social Security
  12. Withdrawal Strategies
  13. Early Retirement
  14. Income Replacement
  15. Health Insurance
  16. Essentials of Estate Planning
  17. Estate and Gift Taxes
  18. Seeking Help from Professionals
  19. Divorce and Other Financial Disasters
  20. Meet the Bogleheads

Phew!

The chapters average 16 pages in length, so you get a little more than just a high-level introduction to each topic, while at the same time avoiding details that are unlikely to be important to more than a small number of readers. Also, the authors conclude each chapter with suggestions for additional reading, making it easy to research a particular topic further should you so desire.

A Few Discussions I Particularly Enjoyed

(In chapter 11) Social Security strategies: By intelligently planning when to begin taking Social Security payments, you can significantly increase your expected lifetime payout. (This goes double for married couples, as the planning opportunities increase when there are two spouses involved.)

(In chapter 9) How asset allocation should be affected by your other assets: For example, if you have a pension that pays out a fixed amount every year, that’s roughly equivalent to a large bond holding, so perhaps you should have a heavier stock allocation than other investors. Also, if your pension is not indexed to inflation, perhaps your other bond holdings should be in TIPS so as to provide some inflation protection.

(In chapter 7) How to shop for Single Premium Immediate Annuities: SPIAs can be used to offset the risk of outliving your income, but shopping for annuities is tricky business. Being an informed customer helps you avoid getting ripped off.

Would I Recommend the Book?

It depends. If you’re still quite young, there’s a lot of material here that you don’t need to worry about just yet. I’d suggest starting with something different–perhaps some combination of the following:

If, however, you’re starting to think seriously about getting all the retirement planning specifics nailed down, then I can’t recommend The Bogleheads’ Guide to Retirement Planning highly enough. It’s the only book I’ve seen so far that covers all of the different topics involved in planning for retirement.

ETF List: The Best (Low-Cost) ETFs

Quick note: This article focuses on ETFs from the perspective of a buy & hold investor. If you’re looking for information for more active investors, I’d suggest signing up for a Morningstar account. (It’s free.)

Last week’s post on the best/lowest-cost index funds went company-by-company. One of the nice things about ETFs is that all you need is a discount brokerage account somewhere, and you can pick and choose between ETF providers–no need to stick with just one company.

In that vein, this week’s comparison of ETFs  is sorted by asset class rather than by company. Really, it’s just a shopping list of sorts: The lowest-cost ETFs that I’ve found for each asset class. If you know of others that should be added (or any that should be replaced with something else), please feel free to share. :)

Update: Because of the fact that Vanguard now allows investors to trade Vanguard ETFs with no commissions in a Vanguard brokerage account, I’ve used Vanguard  ETFs wherever possible. (In most cases, they have the lowest expense ratios as well.)

Domestic Stock ETFs

Asset Class Name Ticker ER
Total Stock Market Vanguard Total Stock Market ETF VTI 0.07%
Large-Cap Blend Vanguard S&P 500 Index ETF VOO 0.06%
Large-Cap Value Vanguard Value ETF VTV 0.14%
Large-Cap Growth Vanguard Growth ETF VUG 0.14%
Small-Cap Blend Vanguard Small-Cap ETF VB 0.14%
Small-Cap Value Vanguard Small-Cap Value ETF VBR 0.14%
Small-Cap Growth Vanguard Small-Cap Growth ETF VBK 0.14%

International Stock ETFs

Asset Class Name Ticker ER
Developed Markets:
Large-Cap Blend Vanguard Europe Pacific ETF VEA 0.15%
Large-Cap Value iShares MSCI EAFE Value Index EFV 0.40%
Mid-Cap Value WisdomTree Interntnl SmallCap Div DLS 0.58%
Emerging Markets:
Large-Cap Blend Vanguard Emrg Mkts ETF VWO 0.27%
Emrg & Devlpd Markets:
Large-Cap Blend Vngrd FTSE All-World Ex-U.S. ETF VEU 0.25%
Mid-Cap Blend Vngrd FTSE AW ex-US Sm-Cap ETF VSS 0.40%

Bond ETFs

Asset Class Name Ticker ER
Short-Term Bond Vanguard Short-Term Bond ETF BSV 0.12%
Interm-Term Bond Vanguard Total Bond Market ETF BND 0.12%
Interm-Term Gov’t Vanguard Inter-Term Gov’t Bond ETF VGIT 0.15%
Long-Term Gov’t Vanguard Long-Term Gov’t Bond ETF VGLT 0.15%
Long-Term Bond Vanguard Long-Term Bond ETF BLV 0.12%
TIPS iShares Barclays TIPS Bond TIP 0.20%

Alternative Asset Class ETFs

Asset Class Name Ticker ER
REITs Vanguard REIT ETF VNQ 0.13%
Precious Metals (Gold) SPDR Gold Trust ETF GLD 0.40%

Too Much of a Good Thing

In my opinion, that very same flexibility–the ability to buy 800 different ETFs from one discount brokerage account–is also the danger of ETF investing. It’s easy to get carried away tinkering with your portfolio, when the reality is that most of us would be better served by simply buying a handful of ETFs and holding them as long as we can.

72(t) Distribution Rules

Important note: This article is simply meant to provide an introduction to the 72(t) rules. If you intend to utilize them, I strongly urge you to work with a professional tax/financial adviser.

What is the 72(t) Rule?

From the IRS FAQ regarding Section 72(t):

“Section 72(t)(2)(A)(iv) provides, in part, that if distributions are part of a series of substantially equal periodic payments (not less frequently than annually) made for the life (or life expectancy) of the employee or the joint lives (or joint life expectancy) of the employee and beneficiary, the tax described in section 72(t)(1) will not be applicable.”

What the heck does that mean?

It means that if you meet a few requirements (which we’ll discuss in a moment) you can withdraw money from a retirement account prior to age 59½ without having to pay the 10% penalty. For investors intending to retire early, this can play a big role in your retirement plans.

It’s important to remember, however, that money coming out of a tax-deferred account will still be taxed as ordinary income, even if you meet the 72(t) requirements. That is, you only avoid the 10% penalty, not ordinary income taxes.

How do you use the 72(t) rule?

72(t) allows you to avoid the 10% penalty by taking a series of (at least) annual distributions from your retirement account. Those distributions must be “substantially equal periodic payments” (SEPPs) calculated–according to methods that we’ll cover momentarily–so as to distribute the entire balance of your IRA over your remaining life expectancy (or the joint life expectancy of yourself and the IRA’s beneficiary).

After you’ve begun taking your 72(t) distributions, you must continue taking them for 5 years or until you reach age 59½, whichever comes later. That means that once you’ve begun the payments, you’re locked in for several years. No changing your mind unless you want to deal with penalties and interest.

Once you’ve been taking the payments for 5 years and you’ve reached age 59½, you can discontinue the payments if you so desire.

Calculating the Distributions

There are three methods for calculating the distributions. You can run the calculations for each of the three methods and use whichever method allows for distributions that best fit your income and tax planning needs.

  1. The Required Minimum Distribution Method,
  2. The Fixed Amortization Method, and
  3. The Fixed Annuitization Method.

There’s no need to do the calculations on your own. Bank Rate has a handy calculator to do it for you.

How about an example?

In 2009, Cathy turns 51 years old. According to the Single Life Expectancy table from IRS Publication 590, her life expectancy is 33.3 years. As of 12/31/08, her IRA balance was $300,000. If Cathy were to use the Required Minimum Distribution Method to calculate her SEPP, her 2009 distribution will be $9,009, calculated as follows:

$300,000 ÷ 33.3 = $9,009.

If her IRA balance at the end of 2009 is $305,000, her 2010 SEPP will be $9,433, calculated as follows:

$305,000 ÷ 32.3 = $9,433. (32.3 being her life expectancy at age 52.)

Cathy would then continue to make take “substantially equal” distributions, calculated in the same way each year until she reaches age 59½, at which point she could stop, should she want to.

A helpful tool, but be careful.

For those of you planning to retire early, knowing about Section 72(t) can be quite helpful. But this is an area filled with potential pitfalls:

  • Forgetting to take a distribution on time,
  • Forgetting to file Form 5329 (if necessary) to report the exception to the 10% penalty,
  • Choosing a calculation method that is less than ideal for tax planning purposes, or
  • Deciding a few years into your SEPPs (but still a few years away from 59½) that you would have been better off if you’d continued working rather than retiring early.

In short, if you think 72(t) may play a role in your retirement plans, it’s worth taking the time to talk it through with a tax professional.

For More Information, See My Related Book:

Book6FrontCoverTiltedBlue

Taxes Made Simple: Income Taxes Explained in 100 Pages or Less

Topics Covered in the Book:
  • The difference between deductions, exemptions, and credits,
  • Itemized deductions vs. the standard deduction,
  • Several money-saving deductions and credits and how to make sure you qualify for them,
  • Click here to see the full list.

A testimonial from a reader on Amazon:

"Very easy to read and is a perfect introduction for learning how to do your own taxes. Mike Piper does an excellent job of demystifying complex tax sections and he presents them in an enjoyable and easy to understand way. Highly recommended!"

Commodity Mutual Funds and Compound Interest: Weekend Reading

Happy Friday! Thank you to everybody who participated in the comments this week. There’s been a lot of thought-provoking conversation on each of this week’s posts. :)

Just a handful of articles (and one short video) for this week’s roundup:

Investing Articles

Other Personal Finance Articles

Blog Carnivals

Enjoy your weekends. I look forward to speaking with you on Monday. :)

The Best (Low-Cost) Index Funds

When choosing between companies for constructing an index fund portfolio, my primary considerations would be:

  • Cost of funds,
  • Minimum investment per fund, and
  • Selection of funds (Does this company have enough funds for me to build a diversified portfolio?).

What follows is a comparison of index funds from Fidelity, Schwab, and Vanguard. (I also took a look at T. Rowe Price’s index funds. Conclusion: Their selection is limited, and their funds cost more than any of the other three companies. Not particularly enticing, in my opinion.)

For comparison, I included funds from each company that could be used to construct Allan Roth’s “Second Grader Portfolio.”

Fidelity Index Funds

Costs: Very low.

  • Spartan International Index Fund (expense ratio: 0.20%)
  • Spartan Total Market Index Fund (expense ratio: 0.10%)
  • Spartan Intermediate Treasury Bond Index Fund (expense ratio: 0.20%)
  • Spartan Short-Term Treasury Bond Index Fund (expense ratio: 0.20%)

Minimum Investment: $10,000 minimum initial investment per fund.

Selection: Limited. There are no value funds, no small-cap funds (though they do have a mid-cap fund), and only one international fund.

Related note: Fidelity has a lot of “enhanced index funds.” I wouldn’t bother with them. Their costs are low for active funds, but still usually significantly higher than decent index funds.

More information about Fidelity’s index funds can be found here.

Schwab Index Funds

Costs: Also very low.

  • Schwab Total Stock Market Index Fund (expense ratio: 0.09%)
  • Schwab International Index Fund (expense ratio: 0.19%)
  • Dreyfus Bond Market Index Fund (expense ratio: 0.40%)

Minimum Investment: This is Schwab’s strongest point. Their index funds have a minimum investment of just $100.

Selection: Limited. For example, Schwab itself doesn’t appear to have a single bond index fund. That said, an investor at Schwab would still have access to bond funds run by other companies (such as the Dreyfus Bond Market Index Fund mentioned above).

Update: Schwab now offers commission-free trades on their own ETFs. Among those ETFs are three very low-cost bond offerings, which would make an excellent complement to an index-fund portfolio.

More information about Schwab’s index funds can be found here.

Vanguard Index Funds

Costs: Very low.

  • Vanguard Total Stock Market Index (expense ratio: 0.18%)
  • Vanguard Total International Stock Index (expense ratio: 0.26%)
  • Vanguard Total Bond Market Index (expense ratio: 0.22%)

Minimum Investment: $3,000 minimum initial investment per fund. (If you have $10,000 available for each fund, you get access to their Admiral Shares share class, which has even lower expenses.)

Selection: Very broad. Vanguard has 29 different index funds covering pretty much every asset class you can think of.

More information about Vanguard’s index funds can be found here.

Conclusion

In short, which company to use depends entirely upon your situation:

  • If you have $10,000 available for each asset class, either Fidelity (with their Spartan funds) or Vanguard (with their Admiral Shares) is an excellent choice.
  • If you have a small amount to invest (less than $3,000), I’d say start with Schwab, and plan on transferring to Vanguard once you have enough to meet their minimums.
  • If you intend to build a somewhat more complicated portfolio–such as one that overweights value or small-cap stocks–or if you have more than $3,000 but not enough to meet Fidelity’s minimums, go with Vanguard.

Black Swan Investing

Carl from Behavior Gap recently posed an important question over at Morningstar’s blog. He asks whether laziness is a significant motivator in investment advisors’ tendency to steadfastly recommend a buy and hold strategy. Carl writes,

“I have found that there is a subculture in the advice industry that dismisses any inquiry about the economy, the markets, or anything other than buying and holding, as speculation.”

He then continues,

“I have recently asked questions about:

  1. The fact that total debt to GDP is over 350% and that is 2x higher than it was in the 1920′s (see chart).
  2. Nassim Taleb’s great books: The Black Swan and Fooled By Randomness.
  3. The work of Benoit Mandlebrot on risk (see this book and this Morningstar Conversation).

…People dismiss the questions as foolishness without even considering them.”

I absolutely agree that it’s worth thinking critically about investment strategies. Whatever strategy you choose to follow, you must have a deep understanding of why you’re following it, otherwise you’ll be unable to stick with it.

Placing Bets

On the other hand, I have my doubts as to the value of attempting to work economic indicators into one’s investment strategy. Take, for example, the above-mentioned 350% debt to GDP ratio. What do you do with that piece of information? In order to make use of it, you need to actually change your strategy in some way.

You have to make a bet. Overweight or underweight something relative to a simple market-cap-weighted portfolio. Or, rather than buying and holding, attempt to use that information to predict where a particular asset class is heading next.

Instead, I choose to bet against anybody’s predictive abilities (including my own).

Planning for the Unpredictable

Incidentally, a large part of my reasoning is exactly what Carl referenced in his post: the concept of the “unknown unknown” or, to use the current catch phrase, the black swan.

Say you know Fact A, and you believe that A will cause Event X to occur. In a vacuum, you may be completely correct. But in the real world, there are also Facts B, C, D, and an infinite number of other facts that you’re entirely unaware of. And any one of those could potentially cause Event X not to occur.

And judging from history, what tends to happen is that while we’re debating whether Events X, Y, or Z will occur, Event Q sneaks up out of nowhere and screws up our plans beyond recognition.

My understanding is that the entire point of the black swan concept is that, rather than looking at some fact (350% debt to GDP ratio) and predicting a particular result, we should accept the fact that we’re not good at predicting major events. We should attempt to build a portfolio (and investment strategy) that recognizes that reality and deals with it appropriately.

My method of planning for the unpredictable is to:

Do I think that’s the only way to respond to an unpredictable investment environment? No. Not at all. But I have yet to encounter any strategy that I’d say is better than this one.

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