It’s no secret that I think individual stocks have no place in most investors’ portfolios. I think most investors are far better served by a simple portfolio of low-cost index funds or ETFs.

That’s why I was intrigued to hear from Kathy Kristof (Contributing Editor at Kiplinger’s Personal Finance, a self-described “moderately lethargic investor,” and somebody who is perfectly well informed about the benefits of index funds) about an experiment she’s trying with her own money. She’s taking $200,000 of her own retirement portfolio, putting part of it into Vanguard’s Total Stock Market ETF and the rest into a portfolio of individual stocks that she’s put together.

She’s reporting her results in an ongoing column: Our Practical Investor’s Portfolio.

I wish her a successful combination of luck and/or skill.

Investing Articles

Other Money-Related Articles

Thanks for reading!

February 3, 2012 3 comments

A reader writes in, asking:

“Because of our income level and because my wife and I both have qualified plans at work, we can neither contribute to Roth IRAs, nor make deductible contributions to traditional IRAs. But for years we have been following what I’ve always seen as the accepted wisdom of making maximum contributions to our IRAs anyway, in order to get the value of tax deferral on the growth and earnings within the IRA.

But I’m now questioning whether we’ve been doing the right thing. When we take distributions, the growth on our nondeductible IRA will be taxed as ordinary income (at rates that will likely be 25% or more given the magnitude of our distributions at retirement age), whereas the capital gains and dividends on the assets we purchase would be taxed at only a 15% rate if we kept them in a taxable account instead.”

Is the “Back Door Roth” an Option?

First, I think it would be a good idea to back up a step and ask if the “back door Roth” strategy is a good option here. In brief, under that approach, you make a nondeductible IRA contribution, then do a Roth conversion.

If you don’t have any IRAs that include deductible contributions or earnings, the conversion would be nontaxable — essentially allowing you to make a Roth contribution even though you’re over the income limit. If, however, you do have IRAs that include deductible contributions or earnings, the conversion will be at least partially taxable, thereby making the strategy less appealing.

Nondeductible IRA or Taxable Account

If the back door Roth is not suitable, I think the question of whether to use a nondeductible IRA or a taxable account depends largely on what will be held in the account. If the account will hold tax-efficient stock index funds or ETFs, then I think I would usually opt for a taxable account for the reasons you mentioned (i.e., the advantageous tax rates on long-term capital gains and qualified dividends as compared to ordinary income tax rates).

But if the account will hold something less tax-efficient (REITs or taxable bonds, for instance), then I think a nondeductible IRA can make a lot of sense.

From what I’ve seen though, for most investors, there’s enough space in other tax-advantaged accounts (employer-sponsored retirement plans, rolled over IRAs, etc.) to tax-shelter all of tax-inefficient asset classes — thereby making it possible to arrange the portfolio so that the only thing that would have to go into a taxable account would be something that’s already tax-efficient.

For More Information, See My Related Book:

Book6FrontCoverTiltedBlue

Taxes Made Simple: Income Taxes Explained in 100 Pages or Less

Topics Covered in the Book:
  • The difference between deductions, exemptions, and credits,
  • Itemized deductions vs. the standard deduction,
  • Several money-saving deductions and credits and how to make sure you qualify for them,
  • Click here to see the full list.

A testimonial from a reader on Amazon:

"Very easy to read and is a perfect introduction for learning how to do your own taxes. Mike Piper does an excellent job of demystifying complex tax sections and he presents them in an enjoyable and easy to understand way. Highly recommended!"

February 1, 2012 3 comments

I’ve written several times about how much I enjoy the Bogleheads forum. While there’s a wide variety of investing-related discussion there, my favorite posts are the simple nuts and bolts ones in which an investor outlines his/her portfolio and other forum members give feedback.

I think it’s fun to see a jumbled mess of a portfolio get cleaned up into something that’s more diversified, lower-cost, and easier to manage. That’s why, when I’m checking out a portfolio, there are three questions I seek to answer:

  1. Is the overall asset allocation appropriate?
  2. Are there any opportunities to cut costs (including taxes)?
  3. Are there any opportunities to simplify?

When answering these three questions, it’s important to remember is that it’s all one portfolio. By implementing your desired asset allocation at the portfolio level (as opposed to in each individual account), you often create opportunities for cost savings and simplification.

Checking the Asset Allocation

As we’ve discussed before, asset allocation is not a precise sort of thing (nor, for that matter, is the concept of risk tolerance, on which an investor’s allocation should be based). As a result, for a given investor, there are countless possible allocations that could be acceptable.

So, for the most part, this step is just a quick check to make sure that there’s nothing that’s clearly wrong (such as a very large allocation to one individual stock or an extremely stock-heavy allocation when the investor has provided no information that would indicate that he/she has a super-high risk tolerance).

Cutting Costs: Start with the 401(k)

When searching for cost saving opportunities, the first place to look is your 401(k). The reason to start here is that all your other accounts (that is, IRAs and regular brokerage accounts) can be held at your brokerage firm of choice, thereby giving you access to low-cost investments in each asset class in these accounts, whereas you don’t always have great options in a 401(k).

So we start with the lowest-cost fund in the 401(k) and allocate as much as possible to that fund without messing up the desired overall allocation. For example, if:

  • an investor’s 401(k) makes up 25% of her portfolio,
  • the lowest-cost fund in the plan is a diversified U.S. stock fund, and
  • her desired asset allocation necessitates holding 30% of her portfolio in U.S. stocks,

…then we’d allocate the entire 401(k) to that U.S. stock fund, and then use the other accounts to fill in the other necessary portions of the desired allocation.

In contrast, if we change the above example so that the investor’s 401(k) made up 40% of her total portfolio, then we would no longer want to allocate the entire 401(k) to the U.S. stock fund (because she only wants 30% of her portfolio in U.S. stocks). Instead, we’d allocate 3/4 of the 401(k) — or 30% of her total portfolio — to that fund in order to achieve her desired U.S. stock allocation. Then we would look for the next-lowest-cost fund in the plan and proceed from there.

Cost Savings: Tax-Efficiency

After doing everything possible to use low-cost investment choices, the next way to look for savings is to try to make things as tax-efficient as possible. The overall goal is to tax-shelter your least tax-efficient assets (REITs, high-yield bonds, and other taxable bonds) by putting them in your tax-sheltered accounts (IRA, 401(k), etc.) before tax-sheltering your more tax-efficient assets.

For most index fund or ETF portfolios, the most tax-efficient asset class is international stocks, so if you only need to leave one asset class in a taxable account, that’s likely to be your best bet.

Simplifying

With regard to simplification, the first and most obvious step is to minimize the number of accounts involved — combining all your non-401(k) accounts at one brokerage firm. (Personally, I like Vanguard. But they’re not the only good choice.)

The next step is to work to reduce the number of funds involved. In many cases this means using just 1 or 2 funds in each account, with the exception of one account (often the biggest one) in which you would hold each asset class and in which the necessary rebalancing would take place to keep the entire portfolio in line with the desired allocation.

January 30, 2012 11 comments

As you might have guessed based on the fact that I don’t make video posts, I learn better by reading about a topic than I do by watching a video. Of course, many people’s preferences are just the opposite.

That’s why I’ve been meaning to mention a series of videos made by Boglehead forum member Rick Van Ness (username “stickman” on the forum). The videos provide 10 rules (one video for each rule — most of them just under 5 minutes) that can help new investors get started on the right path.

You can see the videos here.

There’s also an accompanying book, which I just got the chance to read this last week: Common Sense Investing: Ten Simple Rules to Finance Your Dreams. Like the books I write, this book is brief and to the point. And the advice is solid and easy to understand.

Investing Related Articles

Other Money-Related Articles

Blog Carnivals

Thanks for reading!

January 27, 2012 5 comments

A quick tax season reader question for today:

“I’m a little confused about exemptions. When you start a new job, you’re required to complete a W-4. Don’t you have the option to claim how many exemptions you want? For example, when I started my job a few years ago, I claimed “0″ so that I’d get more taxes taken out and then get a refund at tax season (rather than possibly owe more at tax time).

However, I’m married and have a son. Should I be claiming “3,” or is that automatically done by my tax preparer when doing my taxes? In other words, am I missing out on my 3 exemptions because I didn’t claim them on my W-4?”

You’re confusing two separate concepts: exemptions and allowances.

Exemptions are claimed on your Form 1040. They reduce your taxable income and, therefore, your income tax. You are allowed one exemption for yourself, one for your spouse, and one for each qualifying dependent.

Allowances are claimed on Form W-4 — when you start a new job, for instance. Each allowance you claim reduces the amount of your income that is withheld for taxes. The point of Form W-4 is to help your employer estimate how much tax you’ll owe on the wages they pay to you, so that they can withhold the appropriate amount from your paychecks.

The link between the two concepts is that the maximum number of allowances you can claim depends on (among other things) the number of exemptions you’re allowed to claim — though, if you want, you can choose to claim fewer allowances than the amount to which you’re entitled.

In other words, choosing not to claim the maximum number of allowances on your W-4 will only increase the amount of income tax withheld from your paychecks. It will not have any effect on your ability to claim the appropriate number of exemptions on your Form 1040.

 

For More Information, See My Related Book:

Book6FrontCoverTiltedBlue

Taxes Made Simple: Income Taxes Explained in 100 Pages or Less

Topics Covered in the Book:
  • The difference between deductions, exemptions, and credits,
  • Itemized deductions vs. the standard deduction,
  • Several money-saving deductions and credits and how to make sure you qualify for them,
  • Click here to see the full list.

A testimonial from a reader on Amazon:

"Very easy to read and is a perfect introduction for learning how to do your own taxes. Mike Piper does an excellent job of demystifying complex tax sections and he presents them in an enjoyable and easy to understand way. Highly recommended!"

January 25, 2012 3 comments

Housekeeping note: Last Wednesday, I upgraded the hosting service for this site. Unfortunately, I messed up the email server in the process and didn’t notice it until Friday. So if you sent me an email last week and did not get a reply, please accept my apologies and resend the email, as I probably never received it.

When it comes to mutual funds, as we all know, past performance is not indicative of future results.

But past performance can still be useful information. One of my favorite ways to use such data is to get a quick, first-glance look at how similar two funds are.

For example, a reader recently asked about whether Fidelity Total Bond Fund (FTBFX) would be a suitable replacement for Vanguard Total Bond Market Index Fund (VBMFX) — he had wanted to use the Vanguard fund, but the Fidelity fund appeared to be the best bond fund available in his 401(k).

The following chart (produced via Fidelity’s website — see the end of this article for instructions on making similar charts) shows us how an investment of $10,000 in each of the funds would have done over the last 10 years.

Conclusion: They’re certainly not the same thing, but they don’t appear to be wildly different either. It’s at least close enough to merit further research (like comparing the funds’ holdings by looking up each fund on Morningstar and viewing the “portfolio” tab).

Or what if your 401(k) had access to Vanguard’s Large-Cap Index Fund (VLACX), rather than a total stock market fund? The following chart compares the fund’s performance since inception to the performance of Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund (VTSMX) over the same period.

Conclusion: “High correlation” would be an understatement. In terms of performance, these two funds are virtually identical — which makes sense, given the degree of overlap between the funds’ holdings.

Or what if you’re feeling tempted to switch from a short-term treasury fund to a long-term treasury fund in order to grab a couple extra percentage points of yield, but you want to get a quick feel for how much additional risk you’d be taking on? The following chart compares the 10-year performance of Vanguard’s Short-Term Treasury Fund (VFISX) to that of Vanguard’s Long-Term Treasury Fund (VUSTX).

Conclusion: These two funds are very meaningfully different. By reaching for that additional yield, you take on a pile of additional risk. (Remember how we discussed that the volatility of a bond fund is proportional to its average duration? This picture shows the difference between a 2-year average duration and a 15-year average duration.)

Important Caveats

Of course, the above past-performance-based comparisons come with some important caveats.

First and most importantly, this is just a first-glance sort of analysis. Before investing in a fund, you’d want to actually take a look at its expenses and its portfolio makeup.

Second, the more actively-managed a fund is, the less reliable this sort of comparison will be. For example, an actively managed stock fund could have performed very similarly to the S&P 500 in the past, but there’s no guarantee that would be the case going forward.

Finally, for index funds, such comparisons become much less meaningful if the fund has switched the index it tracks over the course of the period in question — like Vanguard Total International Stock Index Fund, for example. And the same goes for “funds of funds” that have changed their composition (like the Vanguard LifeStrategy funds and Target Retirement funds).

To make such charts on your own: Visit Fidelity’s website, then click “research,” then “mutual funds.” Then enter the ticker symbol for one of the funds in question. Then, under the resulting chart, enter the ticker symbol for the second fund in the field for “compare funds.”

Credit where credit is due: Boglehead forum member nisiprius has been using such visual comparisons in his posts for years. I’ve often found them to be quite enlightening, so I thought I’d share the idea with you.

January 23, 2012 2 comments

Disclaimer #1: Many of the links on this site are affiliate links. That means that if you click through from my link and buy the linked-to product, or sign up for the linked-to service, I receive a commission. For example, if you click through to Amazon via one of my links, I receive a commission of approximately 7% for any product you purchase.


Disclaimer #2: By using this site, you explicitly agree to its Terms of Use and agree not to hold Simple Subjects, LLC or any of its members liable in any way for damages arising from decisions you make based on the information made available on this site. I am not a financial or investment advisor, and the information on this site is for informational and entertainment purposes only and does not constitute financial advice.


Copyright 2012 Simple Subjects, LLC - All rights reserved. Terms of Use and Privacy Policy